The Sgurr of Eigg and Rum Cuillin, Small Isles
| Distance: | 21.5kms/13.4 miles |
|---|---|
| Height Gain: | 2100 metres/6889 feet |
| Approx Time: | 2 days |
| OS Map: | Explorer 397: Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna & Sanday |
The Small Isles off the west coast of Scotland, just south of Skye, offer visitors the perfect get-away-from-it-all and fine walking into the bargain! The islands are accessed by CalMac ferry from the busy port of Mallaig and their seclusion and undeveloped nature are the reason why so many visitors head here.
This walk involves tackling two separate routes, most likely over two separate days as one route is on Eigg and the other on Rum. You'll need to consider ferry timings carefully, but spending some time walking on these islands will provide you with cherished memories for many years to come.
The first walk starts from the pier at Galmisdale on Eigg where the Small Isles ferry calls. This is a fascinating island and a pioneer in 'going green' and renewable energy. This route takes you to the An Sgurr - a dramatic peak which towers over the tiny harbour and the highest point on the island. At first glance this walk appears to be the domain of rock climbers, but it a relatively short but steep straightforward ascent with a bit of scrambling.
To walk the route, follow the road up from the pier until beyond Galmisdale House. Avoid the main road (right fork) which heads to Cleadale. Head west on the Grulin path along the southerly base of this impressive monolith. At the end of the path head north up steep slopes then east towards a short airy scramble onto the ridge of An Sgurr. After the scramble follow the path to the trig point. Note that the trig point is close to the edge of this peak and care is required in poor visibility. You'll have amazing views over maritime and coastal scenery on a clear day from the summit. To return, retrace your outward steps.
After your walk, it's well worth staying overnight and exploring more of Eigg before moving on to Rum. Visit the Singing Sands which overlook Rum, explore Grulin and various caves dotted around the coast and stop at Kildonan Chapel and Celtic Cross. There are several options for accommodation on the island too, mainly located around or close to the settlements of Galmisdale, Kildonan and Cleadale.
To find out more about Eigg visit the Isle of Eigg website.
Then it's on to the biggest of the Small Isles - Rum. Rum is a National Nature Reserve and an excellent location for wildlife watching (the island has been well-featured on BBC Autumn Watch) and walking. There are no tarmac roads on the island and the few cars there are here, are 4 x 4's!
The ferry journey into Loch Scresort is a memorable one, with Kinloch Castle (a hostel where most overnight visitors to the island stay) at the head of the Loch set against Kinloch Glen. To the south of this rise the magnificent peaks of the Rum Cuillin.
An ascent of the Rum Cuillin Corbett's is a spectacular challenge - in clear weather, a superb long scramble across unforgettable peaks.
Begin at Kinloch Castle and head through the woodland behind the Castle (the route is well signposted from the Castle) and up the side of the Allt Slugan a Choilich stream into Coire Dubh. The woodland thins as you climb higher and you'll also pass a small dam. Climbing steeply from Coire Dubh you'll reach Bealach Bairc-mheall which separates Barkeval from Hallival. Head south-east up Hallival to reach your first summit of the day.
Beyond Hallival, the rocky ridge drops to a col and then climbs via a narrow and rocky ridge to Askival, Rum's highest peak and your first Corbett of the day. Askival's north ridge is the sharpest of the day and provides the most spectacular scrambling, although the only real difficulty you should face is the steep step of the Askival Pinnacle, which you can avoid by taking to the the east side of the ridge, where you should be able to pick a steep but easy route through the rocks to the summit.
From Askival descend into the Bealach an Oir. To continue to Ainshval there are two options depending on how you feel!
For more adventure, climb the east ridge of Trallval, taking care when scrambling along its twin summits and then descend steeply to the Bealach an Fhuarain before continuing/scrambling on the west side of Ainshval's airy north ridge to reach the summit and your second Corbett of the day.
If you're less enthusiastic, an alternative route heads from the Bealach an Oir, skirting along the lower slopes of Trallval towards the Bealach an Fhuarain. This option is mainly on steep tussocky grass where it would be useful to have one leg (your left one!) longer than the other. The summit of Ainshval is then reached by the description above.
From Ainshval, you'll find the easiest way to return is to re-descend to the Bealach an Fhuarain and contour around the slopes of Trallval to the Bealach an Oir. From here, descend slightly and traverse beneath Askival and Hallival around the head of the magnificent Atlantic Corrie to reach the Bealach Bairc-Mheall once again and follow the route back into Coire Dubh and back to the Castle.
An alternative and longer, but possibly more rewarding return, is to ascend Sgurr nan Gillean and then drop down steeply on its south ridge to Dibidil bothy. From Dibidil a long path stretching around 4 miles contours above the steep easterly cliffs to return to Kinloch.
It's also worth exploring more of Rum whilst you're here. Wildlife, especially Red Deer are in abundance. One of the best places to see these sturdy creatures is in Kilmory Bay in the north of the island. This is a stunning location, which is around 5 miles from Kinloch village on Land Rover tracks, with magnificent views over to the Skye Cuillin. The deer very often head onto the beach here.
You may also be lucky enough to spot a white-tailed sea eagle and of course Rum is home to the famous Rum ponies. It's also worth taking the tour of Kinloch Castle and learning more about the Bullough family who owned the Castle and the island in the 19th-century.
To find out more about Rum, visit the Isle of Rum website.
