This is an outstanding wilderness expedition to a legendary Scottish mountain, sometimes referred to as Scotland's 'Sugar Loaf'. Beguiling and formidable, Suilven has always been a famous landmark for all who pass this way, from Celts and Vikings to today's mountaineers.
Massively impressive, its bulk dominates the wilds of Sutherland - the great flats of interwoven heather, the myriad lochs and the grey, rumple-skinned gneiss. It's extremely remote which adds to the adventure; allowing you to explore the lochs on the way and enjoy stunning views of both Suilven and Stac Pollaidh as you canoe between them.
The timings and distance for this route are for a challenging day expedition. For a more rewarding adventure including canoeing, allow for 2 days, including an overnight camp or two on the shores of Loch Veyatie or Fionn Loch, before and after ascending Suilven itself.
The journey starts in the pretty hamlet of Elphin, north of Ullapool. The first stage is to Canadian canoe across Loch Veyatie, with a possible wild camp overnight (see our Outdoor Access page for further information about responsible camping).
The second stage involves more paddling up Fionn Loch with the magnificent mountain of Suilven emerging before your eyes. On the same day, you'll climb and descend the mountain.
This route is a serious proposition and better suited for those with Scottish hillwalking and scrambling experience or those employing the services of a guide. The whaleback of sandstone has steep cliffs, with Bealach Mor, the main pass over the mountain running north to south and splitting Caisteal Liath (the Grey Castle in Gaelic and the true summit) from Meall Meadhonach, the east summit.
Although there are easier ways to climb Suilven, this exposed circular route is one of the finest. Approaching from the west, the route traverses the ridge of the mountain from east to west; you'll encounter two sections of technical difficulty. The first and most trying is the descent from Meall Bheag to the gap below (east of) Meall Mheadhonach: it's extremely exposed and requires careful route-finding. Secondly, the descent from Meall Mheadhonach involves negotiating a 12 metre rock band. In winter conditions from October to May, traversing the mountain should be treated as a full mountaineering expedition.
The geology of this region is Torridonian sandstone standing on a platform of gneiss; where exposed, this is easier to walk on. From a distance anyone can mistake the white quartzite boulders scattered over the top of Caisteal Liath for sheep!
Along the way, you may see a golden eagle, white-tailed eagle, ring ouzel and the great northern diver, red deer, mountain hares and wildcats. Heather, northern rock cress, alpine hair grass and mountain sedge all grow in this region.
After you've conquered Suilven there's an option to camp overnight at the head of Fionn Loch, allowing you to catch a magnificent sunset, and the next day return by canoe, taking some time out for trout fishing along the way.
If you're new to walking and canoeing in Scotland or are unfamiliar with this area of Scotland, then it may be worth joining a guided trip. One such company which runs guided trips to Suilven is Beyond Adventure, visit their website to find out more. Other local companies may also be able to provide canoe hire and walking guiding services.
For an alternative route to the summit of Suilven, visit the Walk Highlands website.
